Ask Kaylin: Makeup for Hyperpigmentation and Rosacea

Rosacea often manifests as redness in the face.
(Image: Kristie Wells via Flickr)

While some people seek out natural makeup to help prevent animal testing or to be more eco-friendly, many of my clients also are looking for solutions to health conditions such as allergies. More rarely, I have clients with redness from rosacea or uneven skin tone. While out a trip recently, I was asked what makeup I recommend for these conditions.

Leilani:
Do you have any makeup recommendations for hyperpigmentation or rosacea?

Disclaimer: I am not a licensed medical professional or licensed esthetician. Please consult your dermatologist or allergist before following any advice in this post.

Kaylin:
Before looking for solutions in makeup, I highly recommend seeing a dermatologist and/or a licensed esthetician for advice. They may recommend using SPF daily to prevent sun damage. Once you've completed that step, you can definitely use makeup to help create a more even skin tone.

• Before using any foundation or concealer, I recommend applying moisturizer and primer to give you a great base.
• To cover rosacea, you'll want to use a foundation with medium to full coverage, at least where your skin is especially red. Consider a cream to powder foundation such as this one by DeVita, or liquid foundations with medium coverage such as this set by Gabriel/Zuzu. I particularly recommend the Gabriel line, as it is available in many retail locations. Mousse foundation is another option.
• To cover hyperpigmentation, use a concealer underneath your foundation to even out your skin tone, or use two different colors of foundation, one to balance the hyperpigmentation, and the other to blend with your natural tone (on areas without hyperpigmentation). There is an interesting tutorial on hyperpigmentation coverage here. Again, you'll want to use foundation with medium to full coverage. See the point above for recommendations.
• As always, finish your application with powder to set.

Conditions such as rosacea may be exacerbated by makeup allergies, so don't settle for products with hazardous ingredients or allergens. Be sure to perform a patch test, as always, when trying a new product.

Disclosure notice: Some products mentioned in this article were sent to me free of charge by the manufacturer for review. No additional compensation was accepted and the opinions are my own. Please verify any claims with the manufacturer, especially if you have any allergies or concerns.

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Ask Kaylin: Makeup without Iron Oxides and/or Mica

Iron oxides may be beautiful in nature, but not everyone
wants them on their face. (Photo: Julia Manzerova via Flickr)

I have worked with many clients with allergies to makeup, and some are more severe than others. Many people with allergies have had success switching to gentle mineral cosmetics (particularly, those without bismuth and fillers such as talc). However, some people have trouble with some of the most common ingredients in mineral makeup: mica and iron oxides. When all of the "natural" makeup uses these minerals, where do you turn to for allergy-free solutions?

Anonymous:
Kaylin, do you know of any makeup without mica and/or iron oxides?  I'm allergic to them and I'm looking for dark shades of eye makeup, such as eye shadow and eye liner.

Disclaimer: I am not a licensed medical professional or licensed esthetician. Please consult your dermatologist or allergist before following any advice in this post.

Kaylin:
I have heard of allergies to one of the other, but both at the same time must be rough. However, don't despair, because there are some options out there for you. I've included products that mica-free, iron oxide-free, and free of both below, so others with similar allergies can find a solution tailored to them as well.

Mica-Free Products:

• Eye shadows - Rejuva Minerals makes a line of mica-free loose eye shadows.
• Eyeliners - DeVita makes eyeliner pencils without mica.
• Mascara - E.L.F. makes a gentle studio mascara without mica. Rejuva Minerals also makes one.

Iron Oxide-Free Products:

• Eye shadows - 100% Pure has a line of eye shadows without iron oxides. They also make creamy eye shadow pencils and shimmery cream shadows (not vegan) as well.
• Eyeliners - See below.
• Mascara - 100% Pure makes a mascara without iron oxides, but it does contain mica and beeswax (not vegan).

Products free of both Mica and Iron Oxides:

• Eye shadows - 100% Pure makes brow powder gels that could potentially be used as neutral eye shadow shades.
• Eyeliners - 100% Pure makes a black gel eye liner that uses fruit and vegetable pigments instead of minerals for coloring. It is also vegan and gluten-free. Biotique Botanicals also makes one, but I'm not sure what all of the ingredients are (it is Ayurvedic and you can see my review here).
• Mascara - E.L.F. makes a volumizing mascara without iron oxides or mica. Another option is using false synthetic lashes such as these from Eco Tools, which come with a latex-free glue. Check out my tips for applying here.

Notes:

• An excellent resource for those with allergies is the store Natural Solutions, which calls out items free of mica and iron oxides.
• If you know of any others cruelty-free products without these ingredients, please list them in the comments.

Disclosure notice: Some products mentioned in this article were sent to me free of charge by the manufacturer for review. Kaylin also works as a paid consultant for Rejuva Minerals. 100% Pure links are affiliate links, and some others are Amazon.com affiliate links. No additional compensation was accepted and the opinions are my own. Please verify any claims with the manufacturer, especially if you have any allergies or concerns.

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Article: Proper Makeup Brush Care

When people have allergies to makeup, one of the first questions I ask is if they clean their brushes regularly. While allergies can arise from sources such as animal hair on brushes, they are often due to using the same brush for months on end, without regular cleaning. You might think you can get away without cleaning your brushes if you aren't experiencing allergies, but your makeup applications could be suffering. Using the same brush for multiple colors of eyeshadow, day after day, can lead to muddy looking colors. For precise applications and a healthy face, follow these tips to clean and care for your brushes.

How to clean makeup brushes:
Methods vary on how best to clean brushes, but I highly recommend watching this video for a full tutorial. Instructions for my (very similar) method are below.

1. Pour out dish soap and olive oil on a plate or other shallow dish (I use clean plastic peanut butter lid). Use a ratio of about 1 tbsp dish soap to 1 tsp olive oil.
2. Swirl brush in soap/oil mixture, making sure to mix in both liquids.
3. Wipe the brush back and forth in your clean palm.
4. Rinse brush in warm (not hot) water until water runs ckear.  If pigments still remain, repeat steps 2-3.
5. Do not dry your brushes standing up (bristles up, ferrule down) or the moisture will loosen the glue over time. Instead, you may use one of the two methods below.
6. Method 1: Ideal Method - Slip a brush guard over the brush, slightly past the bristles. Place ferrule-down in a clean cup, allowing the brush guard to support the brush (not the bristles). This is the best way to keep moisture out of your brushes and maintain their ideal shape, but the brush guards can be a bit of an investment.
7. Method 2: Quick and Easy Method - Place a long, 1/2" tall object (shaped similar to a box of spaghetti) under one end of a microfiber cloth. Dab the bristles on the lower end of the microfiber cloth to remove excess moisture. Then prop the brush up to dry by placing the ferrule on top on the "step" and the bristles resting against the lower end of the microfiber cloth. This allows the moisture to seep downwards, but I rotate brushes regularly using this method so they don't become misshapen.

Keep an extra set handy in case you need
clean brushes in a hurry.

Tips:

• Buy only vegan brushes to ensure no animals were harmed.
• Always wash brushes used for creams and liquids after every use, even if only with water. When on the job, I clean slick brushes by soaking them in a gentle makeup remover, rinsing with water, and drying with a clean tissue.
• Keep an extra set or sets of your favorite brushes on hand if you don't have time to wash brushes as often as you'd like. For budget picks, check out brands such as Eco Tools and E.L.F..
• If you don't have spare brushes on hand, a brush cleaner can help with quick changes of color or in a pinch. However, brushes filled with powders (for example, a foundation powder brush you've been using all week) will likely need a full wash if you want to use it for a clean application of another color.
• For more tips on sanitation and for brush cleaner recommendations, check out my post on sanitizing cosmetics.

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Ask Kaylin: Makeup Remover for Sensitive Eyes

Image: parrchristy via Flickr

Whether you suffer from seasonal allergies or ingredient allergies (or both), most of us know the pain of itchy, red eyes. For some of us, it was why we started using natural products in the first place. So when I was asked for help from someone with sensitive eyes, I was happy to provide a product recommendation.

Cynthia:
I have sensitive eyes and skin. Do you know of any good makeup removers for me?

Kaylin:

If you're looking for a makeup remover for sensitive eyes, many natural products will do the trick. My personal favorite is Beauty Without Cruelty's Extra Gentle Eye Make-up Remover. As the name indicates, it is a very gentle formula, and this product can be found in many retail stores on online on sites such as Amazon.com.

This remover has a light consistency, so I recommend applying it with an organic cotton pad. Be sure to moisten the pad thoroughly, then use gentle downward motions to remove the makeup. Run the pad lightly underneath your lower lid to remove any stray makeup. Be gentle, as you don't want to pull or tug the delicate under-eye area. And as always, please discontinue use of this and any other product if you experience any irritation, redness, or other reaction.

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